The best new burn you can tell someone at a dinner party when they show you their engagement ring is: “Amazing ring! Is it a lab grown diamond?” And watch their face decompose.
Actually, I should just write a whole article on bitchy subtle comments, you can tell someone, when they show you their engagement rings (to be used sparingly and wisely, and I cannot be held responsible for the repercussions!).
One of my favorite ones recently was: (A guy showing to a friend a HUGE 12ct diamond ring he’s about to propose with) Friend asks: “Is it a yellow diamond?” because the diamond is a little off-white. The guy offuscated answers: “Of course not, it’s white!”
Anyway I digress…
With the rise of lab grown diamonds, what is the best alternative to differentiate your diamonds to the lab grown ones? We've all seen diamonds, haven't we? The flawless, glittering modern brilliant cuts that look like they've been designed by a supercomputer (because they basically have). They're stunning. But are they… interesting?
Lately, there’s been a quiet rebellion happening in jewellers' shops and on Instagram feeds. People are falling head over heels for diamonds that are a bit… different. Diamonds with wonky facets, a bit of a soft glow, and a history you can practically feel. I’m talking about the glorious Old Mine and Old European cuts. And honestly? I fell hard for them too.
Before machines did all the work, cutting a diamond was a proper craft. It was all about the human eye and a steady hand.
This is why no two old diamonds are ever exactly the same: each one has its own little personality.
The Old Mine Cut (OMC): It’s that chunky, cushiony square shape you see in serious antique jewellery. They have a high crown, a tiny table (the top flat bit), and an open culet (that's the pointy bottom, which often looks like a tiny black dot in the centre – it’s a feature, not a flaw!). Their magic trick? They were designed to blaze like a firework under candlelight.
It’s basically made for the women who love a candlelit dinner… I can’t be wearing my diamonds in the evening without candles in close proximity!
The Old European Cut (OEC): The OMC’s slightly more refined, Art Deco-era granddaughter. This is the one that came just before the modern round brilliant. It’s got that classic round shape but with all the charming hallmarks of its predecessor: a smaller table, a higher crown, and those fabulous, large facets. The sparkle is less "disco ball" and more "chunky, broken glass" effect. It’s a total showstopper.
This isn't about which is better. It's about which vibe you're after.
The Modern Brilliant Cut: The precision-engineered superstar. It’s all about maximum, blinding white light and sparkle. It’s consistent, predictable, and brilliantly shiny. Think of it as a perfectly executed pop song.
The Old Cuts: The jazz musicians. They’re all about soul, character, and fire (those rainbow flashes). They’re imperfect, unique, and have a warm, dreamy glow that feels incredibly personal. They’re the album track you discover and feel is speaking just to you.
Here’s a bit of good news that often surprises people. You frequently get more diamond for your money with an old cut.
Wait, really? Yep. Modern cutting is obsessed with maximising sparkle from every single carat of rough diamond. The old-school cutters were a bit more relaxed, often prioritising the natural shape of the crystal. This means an old cut diamond often retains more of its original carat weight.
My favourite part: vintage cuts also tend to spread a lot more, so you might have a 1ct OMC looking like 2ct!
So, you might find a gorgeous 1.2-carat OEC for a similar price to a 1-carat modern brilliant. Don’t get me wrong, a top-tier antique stone in a historic setting can command a huge price, but generally, the value proposition is fantastic.
Ask yourself this: do you want a ring that’s technically perfect, or one that’s perfectly *you*?
If you’re drawn to things with a story, if you love the idea of a ring that’s truly one-of-a-kind with a warmth that new stones just can’t replicate, then your answer is probably yes.
The best way to know for sure? Go and see one. Pop into a proper antique jeweller or contact me and ask to see an Old European or Old Mine cut next to a modern one. See which one makes you smile. I have a feeling I know which it’ll be.
From the studio,
Guillaume
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