There’s been a lot of conversation around lab-grown and natural diamonds over the past few years, especially in discussions around lab-grown vs natural diamonds, often being framed as one being better than the other in some way—i.e. ethics, environmental constraints, price points, but I don’t see it that way. Both exist for a reason, and people ought to choose based on what matters to them when buying diamond jewellery or engagement rings. For me, it comes down to what feels right for the kind of pieces I want to make.
Are they the same?
The difference isn’t just how they look because to the naked eye, they can be identical (growth patterns excluded), which is why the debate around natural vs lab-grown diamonds can feel confusing. Promoters of lab-grown diamonds often say they are chemically the same, and that is true! But how we come to be is a large part of what we are. Natural diamonds are formed over a very long time under specific conditions we haven’t controlled, which is part of what gives natural diamonds their rarity and value. For example, if the crystal lattice that contains the carbon structure of diamonds is shifted or bent, they can become red and pink. There’s a limit to them. Lab grown diamonds are created in a controlled environment, which is impressive in its own way, but they are still made to order, making them more widely available than rare natural diamonds.
Ethics around natural diamonds have come a long way, and it’s something I take seriously in how I source, particularly when working within the world of ethical diamonds and responsible jewellery sourcing in London. It’s normal now to work with suppliers who prioritise traceability, fair labour practices, and responsible mining, rather than treating it as an afterthought or simply a certificate. If someone prefers not to engage with newly mined stones at all, I can offer natural diamonds that are antique diamonds, reclaimed diamonds, or heirloom jewellery reworked, which is increasingly popular for those looking for sustainable engagement rings. They carry the same material qualities, just with a different history. There’s room to be thoughtful about both origin and impact, without stepping away from natural stones altogether.
At the Stapylton-Smith studio
With Stapylton-Smith, I’m drawn to materials that are lasting and not replicated, particularly when creating fine jewellery and engagement rings in London. I want the pieces to have a certain weight to them beyond appearance. Natural diamonds fit into that way of thinking. It’s not about them being “better,” it’s about the fact that they aren’t infinite, and that adds something I value, especially in a market where lab-grown diamonds are increasingly accessible. A friend of mine who works in high jewellery and I were talking about how when they make a piece for a client, they make another with lab-growns, so that their client can wear it to the beach and not worry.
That said, this isn’t a criticism of lab grown diamonds. They make sense for a lot of people and I understand why they’re appealing, particularly for those searching for affordable diamond alternatives. They’re just not something I choose to work with. For my work, natural stones are more in line with what I’m trying to build, and the longevity and meaning I want the pieces to hold, especially within the context of natural diamond jewellery and antique engagement rings.
0 comments