8.5ct of Sapphires Invisible Set White Gold Ring

Invisible setting emerged during the early twentieth century as jewellers pursued cleaner and more uninterrupted surfaces of colour. Popularised during the Art Deco period, and later patented in technique by Van Cleef & Arpels in the 1930s, the method allowed gemstones to appear almost suspended without visible claws interrupting the design.

Crafted later, this ring reflects the continuation of that technical innovation into mid-century jewellery design. Composed of calibré-cut sapphires, each stone is individually grooved beneath the surface and fitted onto a concealed framework within the mounting. The process requires exceptional precision, both in the cutting of the stones and in matching their colour closely enough for the surface to read as one continuous field of blue.

The white gold mount emphasises the uninterrupted sapphire surface, giving the ring a clean and architectural quality characteristic of the period. Much of the craftsmanship is deliberately hidden, allowing the simplicity of the design to speak first.